What you’ll need

What size is your intake pipe?

Your intake pipe is the white PVC pipe at your furnace (inside the house) that brings outside air in. Check its size there.

Your intake pipe
The damper teed into the white PVC intake pipe next to a furnace.

Vertical or horizontal uses the same parts; only the tee orientation changes.

2-inch intake parts

Same list for vertical or horizontal pipe.

PartQtyRole
EfficiencyMax damper, P/N FM 20101Comes in the package. Glue it onto the 2-inch branch of the tee.
2" × 2" × 2" PVC DWV sanitary tee, hub × hub × hub, Schedule 401The fitting the damper glues to, and the fitting that goes into the intake. A 2" Schedule 40 pressure tee is an acceptable substitute.
PVC purple primer + PVC cement (4 oz handy pack is enough)1 packFor the damper-to-tee joint and the tee-to-pipe joints.
2" PVC DWV repair / no-stop / slide coupling1, optionalOnly if the existing pipe cannot be spread enough to seat both ends of the tee.
2-inch by 2-inch by 2-inch white PVC sanitary tee

2" × 2" × 2" PVC sanitary tee

A hub × hub × hub DWV sanitary tee, such as a Charlotte Pipe fitting. Glue the damper to one 2-inch hub. A Schedule 40 pressure tee of the same size is an acceptable substitute if the DWV tee is out of stock.

Optional 2-inch repair coupling

Only if the existing pipe cannot be spread enough to seat both ends of the tee. Ask for a 2-inch PVC DWV repair, no-stop, or slide coupling.

3-inch intake parts

Same list for vertical or horizontal pipe. Glue the damper onto the 2-inch branch of the reducing tee.

PartQtyRole
EfficiencyMax damper, P/N FM 20101Glue it onto the 2-inch branch of the reducing tee.
3" × 3" × 2" PVC DWV sanitary reducing tee, hub × hub × hub, Schedule 401The 3-inch run goes in the intake; the 2-inch branch takes the damper. No separate reducer is required.
PVC purple primer + PVC cement (4 oz handy pack is enough)1 packOatey’s 4 oz clear regular cement is rated for pipe up to 3 inches.
3" PVC DWV repair / no-stop / slide coupling1, optionalOnly if the existing 3-inch pipe cannot be spread enough to seat both ends of the tee.
3-inch by 3-inch by 2-inch white PVC reducing sanitary tee

3" × 3" × 2" PVC reducing sanitary tee

A hub × hub × hub DWV reducing sanitary tee, such as a Charlotte Pipe fitting. The 3-inch run goes in the intake; glue the damper to the 2-inch branch. No separate reducer is required. Do not buy a double sanitary tee or a tee with a side inlet — those are different fittings.

Optional 3-inch repair coupling

Only if the existing 3-inch pipe cannot be spread enough to seat both ends of the tee. Ask for a 3-inch PVC DWV repair, no-stop, or slide coupling.

Tools required

A PVC cutter or a fine-tooth saw

Illustration of a ratcheting PVC pipe cutter on a length of pipe

PVC cutter or fine-tooth saw

A ratcheting PVC cutter works on 2-inch pipe. For 3-inch pipe, use a fine-tooth saw. You will also want a marker, a tape measure, a rag, and sandpaper or a knife to deburr the cut pipe.

Installation instructions

Watch the video, then follow the steps below. Install only on the intake pipe, not the exhaust. How to tell.

Get the PVC tee & cement/primer first.

Not comfortable cutting and gluing PVC? Your HVAC tech can put it in at your next tune-up (compare to an emergency call charge). The manufacturer recommends installation by a qualified person. If that doesn’t describe you, have someone qualified install it. MUST FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS

Watch a real install (sped up)
A FlameMeister damper teed into the white PVC intake pipe next to a Bryant furnace in a home basement.
A real install in a real home: the damper tees into the intake pipe near the furnace.

Which pipe is the intake?

The damper goes on the intake only, not the exhaust. Both pipes can be white PVC, so color alone does not tell them apart.

  1. Use the manufacturer’s labels and the manual. Look for INTAKE or COMBUSTION AIR versus EXHAUST or VENT, and confirm against the pipe diagram in your exact model’s installation manual. Do this without removing panels.
  2. Treat other signs as clues only. Temperature, visible vapor, or a condensate drain position may hint which pipe is which, but they are not reliable identification.
  3. If you cannot confirm it, stop. Do not cut or modify either pipe until the intake is positively identified. Ask a licensed HVAC professional. The damper goes on the intake only.
1

Confirm the furnace and pipe size

This damper is for a 90%+ two-pipe gas furnace or boiler with a PVC intake. Measure the intake: 2-inch or 3-inch. Do not install it on the exhaust or on a one-pipe or metal-flue system.

2

Buy the local parts

Buy a 2-inch PVC DWV sanitary tee for 2-inch pipe, or a 3-inch by 3-inch by 2-inch reducing sanitary tee for 3-inch pipe, plus purple primer and PVC cement. Purchase Locally Here. A Schedule 40 pressure tee of the same size is an acceptable substitute if the DWV tee is out of stock. If the intake is black ABS, buy an ABS tee and ABS cement instead.

3

Glue the damper to the 2-inch hub

Glue the damper onto the 2-inch branch of the tee using PVC primer and cement. Put a small amount of PVC cleaner or primer and cement only on the back flange — the flat outer ring, also called the glue surface.

Use only 4 dots of cement, spaced evenly around the circle. Don’t get any cement on the moving damper flap, its slot, or its edges, or the damper won’t open.

Photograph of the damper back on a light blue background, with four red dots of cement on the outer flange and arrows pointing at each dot. Label: Glue here: 4 "dots" of cement on the back flange only.
Back: glue here
Photograph of the damper front on a matching light blue background, with a red circle-slash over the face and the label: No cement (glue) on the front.
Front: no glue
4

Cut the tee into the intake

The patent describes cutting the intake about 12 to 20 inches from the appliance, cutting out a short section, deburring, and inserting the pipe ends into the tee sockets. If the pipe cannot be spread enough to seat both ends, add a repair or no-stop slide coupling in the same diameter.

5

Point the arrows straight UP

Arrows on the damper must point straight UP. A vertical tee in the intake is typical; a horizontal run is also OK.

In both layouts, the damper face stays vertical, with the adjustment screw at the bottom and the green stripe roughly horizontal. On a vertical run, airflow through the tee is down toward the furnace, and the branch and damper point to the side. On a horizontal run, the branch and damper also point to the side — not straight up.

Official package diagram showing the damper teed into the combustion-air intake in a horizontal left, horizontal right, or vertical location. Do not install it on the exhaust vent.
From the package: a vertical tee is typical; horizontal left or right is also OK. Install only on the intake (combustion air), not the exhaust.
6

Adjust the balancing screw

After install, adjust the balancing screw so the damper stays closed during normal furnace operation with an unobstructed intake.

Orientation

Arrows on the damper must point straight UP. A vertical tee is typical; a horizontal run is also OK.

In both layouts, the damper face stays vertical, with the adjustment screw at the bottom and the green stripe roughly horizontal.

  • Vertical pipe (typical): Cut the tee into the vertical intake. Airflow through the run is down toward the furnace. The branch and damper point to the side.
  • Horizontal pipe (also OK): Cut the tee into the horizontal intake. The branch and damper point to the side — not straight up — so the damper face stays vertical.

The patent describes cutting the intake about 12–20 inches from the appliance, cutting out a short section, deburring, and inserting the two pipe ends into the tee sockets. Use primer and cement, not RTV silicone.

Before you start

  • Install only on the intake, not the exhaust.
  • This damper is not for primary combustion air. Do not install it in a confined space that fails the 50 cu ft per 1,000 BTU/h rule (ANSI Z223.1 / NFPA 54, 9.3.2.2). See Safety limits.
  • If the intake is black ABS, not white PVC, buy an ABS tee and ABS cement (or a PVC-to-ABS transition cement). Regular PVC cement will not reliably join PVC to ABS.
  • Most 90%+ furnace manuals allow PVC DWV and Schedule 40 pressure fittings on the intake — confirm against your furnace manual.

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